The Tone Reaper is a vintage style fuzz device based on the “3 knob” bender. It’s a silicon/germanium hybrid capable of producing an array of tones from every bender era with careful tweaking of the tone and fuzz controls. From thin and spitty to a growling crunch, all with a midrange punch to make it scratch and kick through any mix. The Tone Reaper will also please anyone looking for the higher gain Randy Rhodes style grind at it’s higher fuzz settings. All analog, true bypass and made one at a time by real humans in stuffy Akron,
Basically it's a modified Tonebender MKIII, with the biggest change being the Germanium darlington pair normally in Q1 & Q2 being replaced with a high gain Sillicon transistor.
Thanks goes to Galapagos, who traced his Tone Reaper, schematic and trace here. You'll notice there's a diode he marked mystery, which from what I can tell looks like a 1N4848/1N914, so that may take some experimenting. Also, without knowing the hfe and leakage of the AC176, I can't say for sure what would be a good substitute, but you may want to try the typical NPN Germaniums typically use like MP38A, but these typically have little to know leakage while the original tonebender Q3 likes a lot of leakage.
Also, after some digging at other pictures and confirming with another worshiper of all things vintage fuzz (Travis), I believe it would be wise to socket the 100pF and 470pF caps as they may be larger then it seems from the markings on the effect. Specifically the 470pF in the tonestack I think should be 4.7nF and the 100pF should be 10nF like a MKII. The cap to ground, 100pF in the layout, would help reduce noise, but in the MKII was 10nF and on the Tone Reaper board itself is poly, which I've never seen a 100pF poly cap. While the 470pF cap on the board is part of the tonestack, and if it is that small would make it sound insanely thin, and on the Tone Reaper board itself is poly, which I've never seen a 470pF poly cap.
Side comment. For those that want to have some more fun, you can build the Tone Reaper and put it in front of a Hoof, each on their own switch and make 2/3 of the Hoof Reaper, as we don't have a schematic for the switchable octave in between.